Kazakhstan: Xinjiang Part 2

This is the continuing story of our Xinjiang excursion, as recalled by my journal entries. :)

February 10, 2010:

It was another long, but fairly interesting day. We woke up around 10 a.m. and went outside in the most bitter cold imaginable. It was apparently a "warm" day, with temperatures around -10 or 0.

In the daylight I could see more of this tiny city. Their small apartment directly overlooks mountains covered entirely in snow. The town itself is covered in more ice and snow than I've ever seen. Everything is icy and treacherous; they don't use salt or sand to melt it. Actually nothing ever melts, so the snow and ice just grows and grows as layer upon layer. People were in the street with sledgehammers breaking up the ice. They probably have to do that everyday.

The whole town has a feel of an Arctic outpost. Everything is expensive, and people were tons of fur. When we went outside the apartment this morning, there were men right by the door with blow torches burning the hair off of cow feet and a cow head. I didn't expect to see that.

There were very few taxis or buses, so we slowly walked downtown, which probably only took 15 minutes, but felt like an eternity in the frigid air. There are only two streets in the town, and we stopped every few minutes to look in little stores and warm up a bit.

People kept asking us where we were from. Just like in Urumqi, they also thought that Kelsey and I were Kazakh or Russian twins. It was really funny. Half of the town is Kazakh and they would smile at us like we were old friends, because they thought we were one of them. Some of them had very light brown hair and very light eyes. They aren't Muslim, so they aren't as distinct-looking as the Uighurs. But they are still so friendly, and it's a nice change for Kelsey and me to sort of fit in somewhere in China.

After looking at some amazing ice sculptures downtown, we went to lunch. It seemed like we walked right into Kazakhstan. Reborn took us to a very busy Kazakh restaurant. It was a very crowded, bustling place. It was like what I imagined the Soviet Union to look like in the 1940s. There were tons of men in old fashioned clothes and fur hats, with very ruddy faces and tall noses. Women were wrapped in shabby fur coats, and had colorful shawls draped across their shoulders and heads.

We all sat shoulder to shoulder in the cramped, lively place as we ate tasty rice, lamb kebabs, and drank tea from bowls. I couldn't understand anything, since they all spoke Kazakh. And they all silently and politely stared at us, trying to figure out who/what we were. Reborn said most of them are farmers or herders, and live very difficult lives.

We finally headed back to Reborn's house by jumping into a full bread van. I had noticed soldiers with fur hats all around this tiny town and asked Reborn why. I sort of understood why in Urumqi, but not in Aletai, which is hundreds of miles away from the capital. She said that they sent in soldiers to prevent unrest like in Urumqi, and that some more soldiers arrived during the "snow disaster" last month, when it snowed something like 5 feet.

Then this evening Reborn went to hang out with some friends. So Kelsey and I hung out with her parents and a random 8 year-old cousin, who never stopped talking once. We tried to make baozi (like giant dumplings) with Reborn's mom. We also played with the little girl all evening. It was fun to be with them, and I spoke so much Chinese.

Thanks for the great day, Father!


(Men burning the hair off of cow feet and a cow head).


(With Kelsey and Reborn on the icy streets of Aletai).


(A lady sledgehammering the ice in the road).


(Aletai at its finest and coldest).


(Eating lunch at a Kazakh restaurant).


(The Kazakh twins eating lamb kebabs).


(Making baozi with Reborn's mom).

I'm ALIVE! Xinjiang Part 1

I've returned to civilization! I've gone to the ends of the earth and now I'm back to tell you all about it! So much interesting stuff happened, that I thought I'd explain one day of my trips to Xinjiang and Sichuan every day. I'll post thoughts from my journal, so you can get the feeling as it happened. :) Thanks as always for your thoughts! I don't think I could have survived without you!

February 9, 2010:

It is midnight and somehow I have found myself on the edge of the earth where it is about -20 degrees. We are currently in Reborn's hometown of Aletai, Xinjiang, which is the most northwestern village in China. We are in the corner of China in the corner of the world.

Kelsey and I arrived in Urumqi, the capital of this vast province in the wee hours of yesterday. Reborn and some random friends met us at the empty airport. I was blown away by the sheer cold and all the snow. I decided we had arrived in Siberia.

One friend had a car so he drove us to stay at his parents' apartment. He got lost, so we were driving around forever in the city, which is pretty amazing. It reminded me a little of America, because of the wide streets. Anyways, we didn't get to bed until 5:30 a.m. and then we slept in 80 layers of clothes until 1 p.m.

After we got up and moving, we convinced Reborn and her friend to take us to the Uighur part of town. The Uighurs are descendants of Turkic people who traveled across the Silk Road and settled in what is now China's Xinjiang province. They are Muslim, and are quite distinct in every possible way from the China's Han majority--religion, appearance, culture, and language.

The formally all Uighur region is now just 40% Uighur, because of the influx of Han people. You can tell there is mistrust and understanding, especially after the July 2009 incident, when 200 people were killed by unrest in this city. (If you're interested in knowing more, look it up on the Internet).

So Reborn and her friend took us to the predominately Uighur part of town, and it was one of the most fascinating places I've ever seen. It was a mix of China, Russia, and the Middle East all rolled into one. Nobody really stared at us, because Kelsey and I don't look too out of place. They were quite friendly, wore lots of fur clothes, and pretty headscarves. The women were quite big and the men were quite tall.

We visited their big market and I bought some scarves. We also sat on a camel in the snow and took pictures. I certainly didn't feel like I was in China, with all the mosques, different languages, and the frigid weather.

After we left the market, Reborn's friend said, "I'm glad you enjoyed it, because we risked our lives going there." I can't believe the misunderstanding and fear Uighurs and Han people have with each other! I was in disbelief.

Around 9:30 p.m., we went out for hot pot at an amazing restaurant. Everyone eats and goes to bed really late here, because it is the same time zone as Beijing, thousands of miles away to the east. It gets light really late in the morning, and doesn't get dark until around 9 p.m.

Then this morning we said good-bye to Urumqi. We hopped on a smelly, stuffy sleeper bus for 10 hours. We had to take the bus during the day, because it's too dangerous to drive at night in the extreme cold, remoteness, and snow. Everyone at the bus station was talking to us in Russian. The taxi driver to the station thought Kelsey and I were twins from Kazakhstan. Nobody has even tried talking to us in English.

The bus was filled with Kazakhs. People greeted us and assumed we were Russian. One Kazakh guy gave Kelsey a hug, like they were old friends. They could not believe we were Americans. And everyone had glittery clothes and fur hats. Some of them had very light-colored hair and even green eyes! They all are Chinese citizens. One Kazakh guy gave me his phone number and insisted he would find me a boyfriend. I could barely understand any of their Chinese; it was so heavily accented. The bus was like being in Central Asia, not China.

The journey was long and a little boring. There was only snow, small mountains, and frozen shrubs everywhere. It was literally the tundra. We drove very slowly on the ice and snow-packed two-lane road. Everything was so desolate. I've never seen so much remoteness for so long. We only stopped a couple times, because there wasn't anywhere to stop. It was extremely cold and only some cattle and camels were on the side of the road. Some Kazakhs served us steaming noodles at one point.

And now we have somehow arrived in Aletai, just shy of the Russian border. I've never experienced such cold and so much snow. Nothing ever melts, so the snow is stacked up as high as one-story buildings on the side of the road. It will be a long, cold week, but I'm glad we can share the Chinese New Year with Reborn and her family at the edge of civilization...


(On a camel in the Uighur section of Urumqi).


(One of the many mosques in Xinjiang's capital, Urumqi).


(Freezing on the 10 hour sleeper bus ride to Aletai).


(Welcome to Siberia: the long road to Aletai).

Thai adventures

My time here in the beautiful, free country of Thailand has just about come to a close. I've had some of the most adventuresome, enjoyable times. I thought I'd share a couple short stories and a few pictures before I leave.

One of the highlights was the "Flight of the Gibbon." My friends and I went an hour away from Chiang Mai into the mountains, which are covered by protected rain forest. It was one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. The whole jungle was nearly untouched, and apparently the place has monkeys, gibbons, snakes, and tigers. Fortunately I didn't see any of the scary animals.

Anyways, the five of us were put with two Germans and two guides. Our guides, Mike and Mao, where from Laos and Cambodia, respectively. They were so much fun and loved us because we are funny and open (and cute!) For a few hours we wore harnesses and zipped across the jungle from huge, towering trees on ziplines. It was so fun and crazy. I felt like I was flying. Plus, we got to be in the midst of the jungle, which was amazing to see His creation in such a way.

Then on Friday, I decided to go on a bike tour of the outskirts of Chiang Mai with my friend Christine. It was just the two of us and a very nice guide, Ya. So for five hours, we rode bikes all around the city and back roads. We visited countless wats and temples, a former leper colony, a bakery, a candy factory, markets, ancient ruins, and a Thai elementary school. It was wonderful to bike the long, empty roads, which were surrounded by enormous flowers, little wooden houses, and mountains. Again, I just felt so blessed and free.

Thanks for your thoughts! I feel like a different, new person now. This trip has been like therapy. Now we're off to Xinjiang, China for 10 days. We won't have Internet, so I'll be in touch in a couple of weeks. Please think of us, especially as we go from 90 degree temperatures to -10 degree temperatures. We will be in Siberia...

Lastly, here's some more pictures!


(Visiting a waterfall).

(Our Flight of the Gibbon group, plus two random Germans).

(Taking off on one of the ziplines. Once a ballerina, always a ballerina).

(On of the many wats we biked to).

(With my fellow Nanchang friend, Christine, on our bike trip).

(On our half-day bike ride).

(A random rickshaw driver who always smiles at me).

Thai Musings

Our conference is quickly coming to a close. I don't particularly enjoy week-long conferences (not that I go to many of them), but this conference has been pretty wonderful. It is a privilege to hang out and worship alongside 600 like-minded people who have seen the Father working in amazing ways. So many of them, especially families, have sacrificed nearly everything to serve in Asia.

I feel my body (and soul) being renewed daily. When I return to China, I think I will be better prepared, especially knowing that He is faithful and true no matter where I am--even if that place is a polluted, concrete jungle like Nanchang.

Speaking of jungle, after the conference we'll be making an excursion into the real, nearby jungle. I'm pretty excited and I'll make sure to tell you all about it! Thanks for your thoughts! I know now more than ever that I can't do anything on my own.

I'm leaving you with just a few random pictures of our time in Thailand so far...


(Want to eat some yummy bugs?)

(Jodi and the Mae Ping river).

(One of the many portraits of the King).

(A random elephant near our hotel).

(With Jodi and her friend at a flower market, plus my new haircut).

Land of Thai

Greetings from beautiful, sunny Thailand!

Northern Thailand has been my residence since last Saturday. Jodi and I went on several flights filled Chinese, Indians, Germans, French, and a smattering of Americans to reach Chiang Mai. What an international world we live in!

We settled into a tiny, camping-like hostel on the Mae Ping River for a few days. We hung out with some of Jodi's Thai friends, walked through flower markets, browsed through used bookstores, ate great Thai food, and basked in the sunshine.

Yesterday our organization's conference started. It is neat, but overwhelming to be around 500 mostly white people. I'm not used to seeing other white people and I get a little intimidated. :) But, it has so far been a great time of renewal and learning.

It also has been refreshing to be in a country that has:
-sunshine and greenery.
-nature!
-flowers.
-openness.
-a relaxed atmosphere.
-English.
-other foreigners.
-people who don't stare at me.
-forks.
-fresh fruit.
-mountains and palm trees.

Yes, I do miss my friends and students from China, but for the moment, I don't really miss China! I know I'll be back there again soon, so for now I'll just enjoy the weather and people here in Thailand.

Thanks for your thoughts in getting us here! Please continue to think of us that we will have open hearts and open minds for Him!

Preview for an Adventure

I'm sure you've heard where I'm headed for the Chinese New Year holiday, but I thought I'd refresh your memory. I've included some more info. and pictures about each place, so you can imagine you are going with me. :)

Chiang Mai, Thailand (Jan. 23rd-Feb. 7th)

Jodi and I are flying all day Saturday to northern Thailand for our organization's annual conference. We will have a few days to hang out before and after the conference. I'm looking forward to the warm weather, wonderful Thai food, and the beautiful sunshine! Hopefully we'll go on a couple biking and/or jungle adventures.

I suppose I'm also looking forward to the week-long conference, where we'll continue to learn more about how to be effective teachers and lights for Him. It should be restful, although there will be about 600 other people there. That can be a little overwhelming, but blessed to be surrounded by so many energetic people on fire for Him.



Urumqi, Xinjiang province, China (Feb. 8th-Feb.10th)

After spending a couple weeks in a politically open and hot, tropical climate, I will head to one of the most politically closed and coldest, most remote places. My friend Kelsey and I will commence our long journey back to China's far northwestern province, Xinjiang. This is one of China's most diverse and amazing places. It is home to a variety of different ethnicities, who aren't even close to being Han (China's main ethnicity). Many of them are Uygur Muslims, who have lived in Xinjiang for hundreds of years and are quite distinct from the Han in appearance, culture, identity and language.

A few decades ago China decided that this vast, resource-rich part of Asia bordering China was Chinese. It obviously wasn't, but what are a few million people going to say to a billion people who want to incorporate them into their country? So millions of Han people have been moving to Xinjiang in the past 60 years, becoming the majority in Xinjiang. The Uygur culture has been diluted, and their rich culture and language are slowly being erased.

Tensions boiled over last July, when many Uygurs rioted in Xinjiang's capital, Urumqi (which is where we are going first). Around 200 people died, thousands of Uygurs were arrested or put to death, and there has been a clampdown by the Chinese government in the region ever since.

Most Internet access is still banned, and most communication with the outside world has also been cut off. So if you don't hear much from me during those days, that's why...



Altay, Xinjiang province, China (Feb. 10th-Feb.16th)

After a couple days in the freezing cold capital, we will head all the way north by bus to my friend's hometown, Altay. Her family is Han Chinese. Her grandparents moved to Xinjiang several decades ago to develop this "backwards" place. That is the story of most of the Han who have settled in this huge province.

And this particular town is only about 60 miles from the Kazakh, Russian, and Mongolian borders. It's about as remote as you can get, and has the nickname of being China's "little slice of Siberia." Now that I think about it, I really don't know why we are going to such a place in the dead of winter. But it should be an eye-opening experience, and I can tell stories to my grandchildren someday about "China's last frontier."







Dujiangyan, Sichuan province, China (Feb. 16th- Feb. 21st)

Our last stop will be central China's Sichuan province. It is a place full of green, misty mountains and extremely spicy food. It is also a very unique place in China. Apparently you haven't seen China if you haven't seen Sichuan.

Kelsey and I will be staying with another friend from our organization who teacher at schools ravaged by the May 2008 earthquake, which killed 90,000 people. I don't really know what to expect, but again I'm looking forward to experiencing yet another side of China.



Thanks as always for your thoughts, especially as we travel to many slightly crazy places. I'm not sure how often I will be able to update my blog in the next month, but know that I'm thinking of you!

A Chinese Sermon

Some days the tragedies and stories of my Chinese friends can leave me feeling disbelief and sorrow. For example, I was sitting by the lake the other day with one of my best Chinese friends. We can usually talk about everything with each other. She told me about her parents who love her a lot, but don't know how to show it.

Her sister, who is four years older than she is, was born first in her family. Two years after her sister was born, her parents were going to have a baby boy--her Mom was quite far along. However, due to China's family planning policy, her mother was forced to have an abortion. This happens in China every day... Sometimes the rich can keep their children, because they have enough money to pay fines or bribes or whatever. My friend's parents and the majority of Chinese don't fall in that category.

Then two years after her brother was to be born, my friend was born. I have no idea how they let her family have her--maybe there was enough distance in age between her and her sister. My friend wishes her brother had been born, but she realizes that she wouldn't be alive if he was... She told me sometimes she thinks about those circumstances, and that's when she knows that she is indeed here for a purpose. She is a new believer who has been passionately telling all her friends and classmates about Him.

Another eye-opening experience was on Sunday night when Jodi, another student, and I went downtown to one of only two "official" (legal) Chinese fellowships in this city of 4 million. (Foreigners are allowed to go to these fellowships if they don't make a scene or anything. But I don't think foreigners ever go.)

The very simple building was nestled in between tall apartments, and there was a policeman with a red armband keeping a watch on everybody. The only flashy part of the church was a glowing red cross at the front of the room. The service started at 7:30 p.m. We arrived at 7:20 p.m., but people were already heartily singing away from their tattered hymnals. There were a few hundred people there already, so we had to sit at the very front.

We sat on rock hard benches for about two hours. As I gazed around, I saw lots of men and women, young and old, rich and poor. Everyone was scrunched together on the benches. I was wedged in between my student and a really sweet woman (see the picture of us with her outside). Before I sat down she wiped the bench off, and another woman behind us handed me a Chinese hymnal.

I got chills listening to them singing the same song over and over again (for nearly 20 minutes!) It was a song about us being tiny raindrops and a family or something. Someone pounded away at a very out-of-tune piano, and every sang loudly and also very out-of-tune. It was so simple and not very beautiful to outsiders, but I'm sure the Father was smiling.

Then a man walked up to a podium and quickly read some verses from the Word for about two minutes. He went so fast that nobody could find the right page, and this was the only time any one read from the Word for the whole two hours. It was pretty sad.

After the Scripture reading, some very enthusiastic and also out-of-tune choir members filed onto the stage. (See the picture). They wore robes made from very plain material. While they were singing, many of them kept sneaking glances at me.

Finally, "Teacher Zao" or somebody, came up to give the message in a purple quilted jacket and jeans. About half of the congregation was asleep before she finished. She talked for about an hour, never once looking at the Word. My student wrote notes about it for me, since I could only understand a little. It was a very watered down message about a million different things such as:

-The Father helps relieve stress, especially for university students.
-Obama tells us to be confident.
-All men are created equal.
-To be a successful person, you need dedication.
-We should take care of our behavior and love others.
-A thousand days is like one day for the Father.
-Don't complain too much.
-If someone looks down on you, you should still treat them kindly.
-The Father can lead us to the bright road. We can have a bright future.
-Having a warm heart is very important.
-We love China.

I was trying not to be critical, but there's a reason that most of our Chinese brothers and sisters don't go to these official fellowships. People are dying to hear truth, and they usually only receive a watery self-help class, mixed in with some patriotism. People were so eager to hear truth, yet I'm afraid they were disappointed and will continue to look elsewhere.

Plus many of the leaders of the fellowships have little, if no training in the Word. The woman next to me asked if my parents were believers. I said yes. She said that I must be a believer, too, because my parents are. I told her that having parents as believers doesn't automatically make their children believers. She didn't seem to understand that.

After the service, everyone practically ran out of there, except for a few curious people who came to talk with me.

Overall, it was a fascinating experience, although a bit disheartening. The revivals and solid teachings occurring around China certainly aren't happening in places like that... They are happening in the house fellowships.