China Skiing: Xinjiang Part 4

February 12, 2010:

Today the wonderment of Xinjiang pretty much ended. Everything was okay this morning, though. First, Reborn, Kelsey and I got on one of the tiny, super crowded buses, which was filled mostly with Kazakhs and their giant fur hats. The street looked like it was during war-time. People were bundled up in very old-fashioned clothes. Some people argued with food vendors on the sidewalks. Massive trucks of coal passed by, and dozens of soldiers marched through the street.

At one of the bus stops, a bread van picked us up to take us to a ski place. We headed directly for the beautiful mountains. It was like we were in Switzerland, but the tons of cattle roaming the snow-encased, narrow road showed otherwise. The little stone houses people lived in were half buried in snow, and looked like they were from another century. The rickety van had to swerve around horses, carts, and wandering cows.

We finally arrived at the ski place, which was pretty nice as far as China is concerned. And it only cost 50 yuan from ski rental and skiing all day, which is less than $10! I hadn't skied since I was 11 years old, but it was a little like learning to ride a bike again. I just felt older, taller, and less flexible. It was so much fun to ski down the fairly empty slopes, surrounded by pristine mountains. The mountains weren't developed at all, so the beauty was nearly untouched. The sky was a gorgeous blue. I don't think many people can say they've gone skiing in such a remote place. I felt very close to heaven.

We really enjoyed skiing, although I was the only one who didn't fall. Maybe it was because of my ballet skills? Reborn, who has been skiing much more often than I have, literally fell on her face about every two feet. Then Kelsey was feeling brave and went on the craziest, steepest slope. She wiped out halfway down, and ripped something in her knee. The ski patrol had to come save her. All the other skiers were so excited. Little kids would ski down the mountain and report, "There's an American up there who looks Kazakh! And she's hurt!" It seemed to be the most thrilling thing to them. So many people were involved in rescuing her. One very nice man even drove us all the way to Reborn's home in his car.

After we made it back into town, Reborn's dad took us to the hospital. The hospital visit was free, because Reborn's dad said Kelsey was his daughter. Nobody even batted an eye, although Kelsey wasn't obviously even close to being related to him. The hospital itself was smaller, but nicer than Nanchang's hospital. Nobody was dying in the corners or throwing up on the stairs. They took an X-ray, although Kelsey didn't think she broke anything. We took the developed X-ray into a room, where a chain-smoking doctor sat playing video games. We didn't feel too confident in him. He just looked at the X-ray, and announced, "You're fine! Nothing's broken!" Yes, we know... So the hospital visit was pointless and Kelsey still feels a lot of pain.


(On the road to the ski place).


(The slopes).


(Skiing with cute little Reborn).

Living History: Xinjiang Part 3

February 11, 2010:

Every day is full of surprises. Today Reborn's grandma came over for a shower. She is the tiniest 85 year-old I've ever seen, but she has perseverance. When she was six years old in eastern Shandong province, her parents began to bind her feet. I've never met anyone with bound feet, especially since most of those generations have died. It was a traditional practice in China to make girls' feet look more "beautiful." The tradition had mostly died out by the early 1900s, but it still hung on in some parts of the country until the 1920s.

So here is Reborn's grandmother with 6-inch long feet, shaped like triangles. She can still get around quite well, and walks by shuffling along on her heels. It was like a living piece of history walked into the apartment.

We were curious about her feet, so she told us more about them, especially how painful it has been her entire life. They had to break all the toes except for the big one, and bandage them tightly into the rest of her feet. And she proudly showed us her tiny little shoes. I was in disbelief. This woman with abnormally small feet laughed when I showed her my large feet, which are twice as long as hers.

We wanted to know more about her life, so she told us a bit through Reborn as our translator. In 1950s, when Reborn's mom was born, they all nearly starved to death. Millions of people did starve to death. Maybe that's why Reborn's grandma and mom are so petite and look older than their age. They could only eat one mantou (bun) a week. The only other thing they could eat was tree bark. They were farmers who literally had nothing, and there was a terrible famine. So now I can understand why Reborn's family is so frugal...

During the afternoon I trudged across a long road and bridge to Reborn's grandparents' house. It wasn't as cold as yesterday, but it was snowing. The temperature might have been as high as 8 degrees or something!

Then Kelsey, Reborn, and I went to the Kazakh neighborhoods. Aletai is about 60% Kazakh. We went to one area, in particular, that looked like a World War Two Jewish ghetto, Kelsey and I both thought. Nobody was probably starving, but that's what the place looked like. They sold saddles, whole skinned animals, and blocks of rock-solid cheese. Everything was extremely dark, dingy, and dirty. The buildings looked like they might collapse any second. Then we rounded a corner and saw a cart full of animal heads-- all bloody, frozen, and still with all the skin, eyes, hair, and teeth. The horse heads were especially grisly.

The rest of the evening was spent inside. We washed clothes, which was the most laborious, time-consuming effort ever. They had a "washing machine," which was barely one step up from washing the clothes by hand. The machine wasn't much of a machine, and didn't do much washing.

You had to fill the machine up with water yourself using buckets of water from the sink. Then you turned a crank, and it halfheartedly swirled everything around for a bit. Then you had to haul the extremely stretched-out, wet clothes to another side of the machine, where you wrung the clothes out with another crank. This whole process was repeated twice. Then we hung all the clothes to dry over the radiators. I would be a terrible Chinese housewife.

And one of the most exciting events was taking a shower! I haven't taken a shower for nearly four days. After the water was heated up in a big, metal box on the wall, I got to take a shower in their dimly-lit bathroom. The water was just a lukewarm trickle from a pipe that stuck out from the middle of the wall. Never had a shower felt so good. I'm learning to be grateful for so much!


(Reborn's grandma with her 6-inch long shoes).


(The grandma's description of her feet being bound).


(Family picture! With Reborn's family).


(The trek across the river to Reborn's grandparents' house.)


(Need some meat? I lost my appetite when I saw these animal parts in the Kazakh section of Aletai).

Kazakhstan: Xinjiang Part 2

This is the continuing story of our Xinjiang excursion, as recalled by my journal entries. :)

February 10, 2010:

It was another long, but fairly interesting day. We woke up around 10 a.m. and went outside in the most bitter cold imaginable. It was apparently a "warm" day, with temperatures around -10 or 0.

In the daylight I could see more of this tiny city. Their small apartment directly overlooks mountains covered entirely in snow. The town itself is covered in more ice and snow than I've ever seen. Everything is icy and treacherous; they don't use salt or sand to melt it. Actually nothing ever melts, so the snow and ice just grows and grows as layer upon layer. People were in the street with sledgehammers breaking up the ice. They probably have to do that everyday.

The whole town has a feel of an Arctic outpost. Everything is expensive, and people were tons of fur. When we went outside the apartment this morning, there were men right by the door with blow torches burning the hair off of cow feet and a cow head. I didn't expect to see that.

There were very few taxis or buses, so we slowly walked downtown, which probably only took 15 minutes, but felt like an eternity in the frigid air. There are only two streets in the town, and we stopped every few minutes to look in little stores and warm up a bit.

People kept asking us where we were from. Just like in Urumqi, they also thought that Kelsey and I were Kazakh or Russian twins. It was really funny. Half of the town is Kazakh and they would smile at us like we were old friends, because they thought we were one of them. Some of them had very light brown hair and very light eyes. They aren't Muslim, so they aren't as distinct-looking as the Uighurs. But they are still so friendly, and it's a nice change for Kelsey and me to sort of fit in somewhere in China.

After looking at some amazing ice sculptures downtown, we went to lunch. It seemed like we walked right into Kazakhstan. Reborn took us to a very busy Kazakh restaurant. It was a very crowded, bustling place. It was like what I imagined the Soviet Union to look like in the 1940s. There were tons of men in old fashioned clothes and fur hats, with very ruddy faces and tall noses. Women were wrapped in shabby fur coats, and had colorful shawls draped across their shoulders and heads.

We all sat shoulder to shoulder in the cramped, lively place as we ate tasty rice, lamb kebabs, and drank tea from bowls. I couldn't understand anything, since they all spoke Kazakh. And they all silently and politely stared at us, trying to figure out who/what we were. Reborn said most of them are farmers or herders, and live very difficult lives.

We finally headed back to Reborn's house by jumping into a full bread van. I had noticed soldiers with fur hats all around this tiny town and asked Reborn why. I sort of understood why in Urumqi, but not in Aletai, which is hundreds of miles away from the capital. She said that they sent in soldiers to prevent unrest like in Urumqi, and that some more soldiers arrived during the "snow disaster" last month, when it snowed something like 5 feet.

Then this evening Reborn went to hang out with some friends. So Kelsey and I hung out with her parents and a random 8 year-old cousin, who never stopped talking once. We tried to make baozi (like giant dumplings) with Reborn's mom. We also played with the little girl all evening. It was fun to be with them, and I spoke so much Chinese.

Thanks for the great day, Father!


(Men burning the hair off of cow feet and a cow head).


(With Kelsey and Reborn on the icy streets of Aletai).


(A lady sledgehammering the ice in the road).


(Aletai at its finest and coldest).


(Eating lunch at a Kazakh restaurant).


(The Kazakh twins eating lamb kebabs).


(Making baozi with Reborn's mom).

I'm ALIVE! Xinjiang Part 1

I've returned to civilization! I've gone to the ends of the earth and now I'm back to tell you all about it! So much interesting stuff happened, that I thought I'd explain one day of my trips to Xinjiang and Sichuan every day. I'll post thoughts from my journal, so you can get the feeling as it happened. :) Thanks as always for your thoughts! I don't think I could have survived without you!

February 9, 2010:

It is midnight and somehow I have found myself on the edge of the earth where it is about -20 degrees. We are currently in Reborn's hometown of Aletai, Xinjiang, which is the most northwestern village in China. We are in the corner of China in the corner of the world.

Kelsey and I arrived in Urumqi, the capital of this vast province in the wee hours of yesterday. Reborn and some random friends met us at the empty airport. I was blown away by the sheer cold and all the snow. I decided we had arrived in Siberia.

One friend had a car so he drove us to stay at his parents' apartment. He got lost, so we were driving around forever in the city, which is pretty amazing. It reminded me a little of America, because of the wide streets. Anyways, we didn't get to bed until 5:30 a.m. and then we slept in 80 layers of clothes until 1 p.m.

After we got up and moving, we convinced Reborn and her friend to take us to the Uighur part of town. The Uighurs are descendants of Turkic people who traveled across the Silk Road and settled in what is now China's Xinjiang province. They are Muslim, and are quite distinct in every possible way from the China's Han majority--religion, appearance, culture, and language.

The formally all Uighur region is now just 40% Uighur, because of the influx of Han people. You can tell there is mistrust and understanding, especially after the July 2009 incident, when 200 people were killed by unrest in this city. (If you're interested in knowing more, look it up on the Internet).

So Reborn and her friend took us to the predominately Uighur part of town, and it was one of the most fascinating places I've ever seen. It was a mix of China, Russia, and the Middle East all rolled into one. Nobody really stared at us, because Kelsey and I don't look too out of place. They were quite friendly, wore lots of fur clothes, and pretty headscarves. The women were quite big and the men were quite tall.

We visited their big market and I bought some scarves. We also sat on a camel in the snow and took pictures. I certainly didn't feel like I was in China, with all the mosques, different languages, and the frigid weather.

After we left the market, Reborn's friend said, "I'm glad you enjoyed it, because we risked our lives going there." I can't believe the misunderstanding and fear Uighurs and Han people have with each other! I was in disbelief.

Around 9:30 p.m., we went out for hot pot at an amazing restaurant. Everyone eats and goes to bed really late here, because it is the same time zone as Beijing, thousands of miles away to the east. It gets light really late in the morning, and doesn't get dark until around 9 p.m.

Then this morning we said good-bye to Urumqi. We hopped on a smelly, stuffy sleeper bus for 10 hours. We had to take the bus during the day, because it's too dangerous to drive at night in the extreme cold, remoteness, and snow. Everyone at the bus station was talking to us in Russian. The taxi driver to the station thought Kelsey and I were twins from Kazakhstan. Nobody has even tried talking to us in English.

The bus was filled with Kazakhs. People greeted us and assumed we were Russian. One Kazakh guy gave Kelsey a hug, like they were old friends. They could not believe we were Americans. And everyone had glittery clothes and fur hats. Some of them had very light-colored hair and even green eyes! They all are Chinese citizens. One Kazakh guy gave me his phone number and insisted he would find me a boyfriend. I could barely understand any of their Chinese; it was so heavily accented. The bus was like being in Central Asia, not China.

The journey was long and a little boring. There was only snow, small mountains, and frozen shrubs everywhere. It was literally the tundra. We drove very slowly on the ice and snow-packed two-lane road. Everything was so desolate. I've never seen so much remoteness for so long. We only stopped a couple times, because there wasn't anywhere to stop. It was extremely cold and only some cattle and camels were on the side of the road. Some Kazakhs served us steaming noodles at one point.

And now we have somehow arrived in Aletai, just shy of the Russian border. I've never experienced such cold and so much snow. Nothing ever melts, so the snow is stacked up as high as one-story buildings on the side of the road. It will be a long, cold week, but I'm glad we can share the Chinese New Year with Reborn and her family at the edge of civilization...


(On a camel in the Uighur section of Urumqi).


(One of the many mosques in Xinjiang's capital, Urumqi).


(Freezing on the 10 hour sleeper bus ride to Aletai).


(Welcome to Siberia: the long road to Aletai).

Thai adventures

My time here in the beautiful, free country of Thailand has just about come to a close. I've had some of the most adventuresome, enjoyable times. I thought I'd share a couple short stories and a few pictures before I leave.

One of the highlights was the "Flight of the Gibbon." My friends and I went an hour away from Chiang Mai into the mountains, which are covered by protected rain forest. It was one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. The whole jungle was nearly untouched, and apparently the place has monkeys, gibbons, snakes, and tigers. Fortunately I didn't see any of the scary animals.

Anyways, the five of us were put with two Germans and two guides. Our guides, Mike and Mao, where from Laos and Cambodia, respectively. They were so much fun and loved us because we are funny and open (and cute!) For a few hours we wore harnesses and zipped across the jungle from huge, towering trees on ziplines. It was so fun and crazy. I felt like I was flying. Plus, we got to be in the midst of the jungle, which was amazing to see His creation in such a way.

Then on Friday, I decided to go on a bike tour of the outskirts of Chiang Mai with my friend Christine. It was just the two of us and a very nice guide, Ya. So for five hours, we rode bikes all around the city and back roads. We visited countless wats and temples, a former leper colony, a bakery, a candy factory, markets, ancient ruins, and a Thai elementary school. It was wonderful to bike the long, empty roads, which were surrounded by enormous flowers, little wooden houses, and mountains. Again, I just felt so blessed and free.

Thanks for your thoughts! I feel like a different, new person now. This trip has been like therapy. Now we're off to Xinjiang, China for 10 days. We won't have Internet, so I'll be in touch in a couple of weeks. Please think of us, especially as we go from 90 degree temperatures to -10 degree temperatures. We will be in Siberia...

Lastly, here's some more pictures!


(Visiting a waterfall).

(Our Flight of the Gibbon group, plus two random Germans).

(Taking off on one of the ziplines. Once a ballerina, always a ballerina).

(On of the many wats we biked to).

(With my fellow Nanchang friend, Christine, on our bike trip).

(On our half-day bike ride).

(A random rickshaw driver who always smiles at me).

Thai Musings

Our conference is quickly coming to a close. I don't particularly enjoy week-long conferences (not that I go to many of them), but this conference has been pretty wonderful. It is a privilege to hang out and worship alongside 600 like-minded people who have seen the Father working in amazing ways. So many of them, especially families, have sacrificed nearly everything to serve in Asia.

I feel my body (and soul) being renewed daily. When I return to China, I think I will be better prepared, especially knowing that He is faithful and true no matter where I am--even if that place is a polluted, concrete jungle like Nanchang.

Speaking of jungle, after the conference we'll be making an excursion into the real, nearby jungle. I'm pretty excited and I'll make sure to tell you all about it! Thanks for your thoughts! I know now more than ever that I can't do anything on my own.

I'm leaving you with just a few random pictures of our time in Thailand so far...


(Want to eat some yummy bugs?)

(Jodi and the Mae Ping river).

(One of the many portraits of the King).

(A random elephant near our hotel).

(With Jodi and her friend at a flower market, plus my new haircut).

Land of Thai

Greetings from beautiful, sunny Thailand!

Northern Thailand has been my residence since last Saturday. Jodi and I went on several flights filled Chinese, Indians, Germans, French, and a smattering of Americans to reach Chiang Mai. What an international world we live in!

We settled into a tiny, camping-like hostel on the Mae Ping River for a few days. We hung out with some of Jodi's Thai friends, walked through flower markets, browsed through used bookstores, ate great Thai food, and basked in the sunshine.

Yesterday our organization's conference started. It is neat, but overwhelming to be around 500 mostly white people. I'm not used to seeing other white people and I get a little intimidated. :) But, it has so far been a great time of renewal and learning.

It also has been refreshing to be in a country that has:
-sunshine and greenery.
-nature!
-flowers.
-openness.
-a relaxed atmosphere.
-English.
-other foreigners.
-people who don't stare at me.
-forks.
-fresh fruit.
-mountains and palm trees.

Yes, I do miss my friends and students from China, but for the moment, I don't really miss China! I know I'll be back there again soon, so for now I'll just enjoy the weather and people here in Thailand.

Thanks for your thoughts in getting us here! Please continue to think of us that we will have open hearts and open minds for Him!